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The Basics of Paper Piecing
Paper Piecing is a technique used to stitch shapes that would be hard to cut and stitch or when perfect piecing is desired. A pattern is copied onto a special sheer paper and then stitched through by machine while adding layers of fabric on the backside of the paper in numerical order. The finished work will emerge right side out on the back side of the paper.
To get started, make photocopies of the pattern onto Simple Foundation Paper. Always make sure that the copy is the same size as the pattern. Some copiers will distort the size and your pieces will not fit later. Next, adjust the stitch length on your machine to 1.8 (or 15-18 stitches per inch). This will perforate the paper and make it easier to remove at the end.
Cut apart the sections if applicable. You will be working on them individually.
Folding the paper 1/4″ away from each seam line will make it easier to line up fabrics and trim seam allowances. Using an Add-a-Quarter Ruler, line the ruler up with the stitching line so the 1/4″ raised part of the ruler extends into the next section to be sewn (if you line up on the stitching line between sections 1 & 2, then the 1/4″ section of the ruler should be extended into section 2). Fold the paper over the ruler to create a crease 1/4″ away from the stitching line. Repeat for all of the stitching lines.
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On the backside of the paper, use a fabric glue pen to apply glue to the section 1 area.
Place your #1 fabric on top of the glue. Make sure the top edge of the fabric is even with the 1/4″ crease mark between sections 1 & 2 and that the entire section is covered with fabric with at least 1/4″ extra fabric extending past each stitching line around the section. If you are using a directional fabric such as a stripe, lay the paper on a cutting mat. Because the paper is sheer, you will be able to see the mat lines and use them as a guide to keep the stripes straight.
Lay the #2 fabric on top of the #1 fabric right sides together. Be sure to line up the top edge at the crease line between section #1 & #2.
Use a pin to hold the fabrics together.
Flip the piece over. You will be sewing on the front side of the paper.
Lower the needle 2 stiches before the start of the seam line between section #1 & #2. Using an Open-toed foot makes it easy to see the line.
Sew directly on the line.
Stop 2 stitches past the line.
With the back side facing up, press toward fabric #2.
With the front side facing up, fold the paper on the stitching line.
Bump the 1/4″ raised section of the add-a-quarter ruler against the paper and trim away any excess fabric greater than 1/4″.
Repeat for the other sides to remove the excess fabric. Save the fabric to use on other sections.
Line up the edges at the crease between sections #1 & #3. If using a directional fabric such as a plaid, make sure the stripes match so the pattern continues across your block. Check if section #3 is covered by at least 1/4″ on all sides.
Repeat the steps above starting with the pinning. Flip the piece over and sew like before. Press, then trim. Continue repeating these steps adding new fabrics in numerical order until all of the sections have been covered.
From the back side trim the finished section 1/4″ away from the solid line to create a seam allowance around the section
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First section is complete.
Second section is complete. Repeat for all of the sections.
Sew the sections together by first pinning them together, making sure to line up any seams or design points, and then stitch on the seam line. It may be helpful to put a pin through the seam line on one piece and then through the other as they are rights sides together to make sure the stitching lines are on top of each other before stitching on the line. The goal is to stitch exactly on both lines at the same time.
Repeat to add all of the remaining sections of the block.
The block is finished! Repeat these easy steps for any paper pieced project you have:) Enjoy!
Laminated Fabric Apron
I found some laminated fabric at going batty! Quilt Shop. It is so soft and feels nothing like the laminated fabrics from 10 years ago. I decided to make an apron out of it. Nothing fancy, just a simple butcher- block style apron.
My husband gave me the bias binder attachment for my sewing machine for a gift (purchased at going batty! of course) and I have been anxious to use it. This is the perfect item to start with.
I read an article on the going batty! blog on how to cut bias binding the easy way. It was so simple to do. First, I used Best Press spray starch on my fabric and ironed it dry. I did this twice. It gives my fabric a little more body. My bias binder calls for 1 1/8” wide strips. Within a few minutes I had enough strips cut from a complimentary cotton fabric and I was ready to sew. Here are the supplies that you will need to make this apron.
A clear ruler, (mine is 8 ½ “ by 24 ½”) a rotary cutter, ½ yd. of a good quality complimentary cotton fabric for your bias binding, a length of laminated fabric, (my fabric had a design that was going in one direction so I used 1 ¼ yds.) some sheeting or old fabric for the pattern, scissors, a water soluble pen and some fine glass head straight pins. I used fine pins so they wouldn’t make a large hole in the fabric that might be seen when the apron was finished.
For my apron pattern I used an old store bought apron. Since my hips are larger than the apron and I like my apron to wrap ¾ of the way around my hips I simply enlarged my apron.
I also like it to be longer than the old apron I had so I added the length.
Since I was going to use my new bias binder attachment I also rounded the bottom corners of my new apron. I placed a round salad plate at the corners and drew a line and cut the square corners off. This will make it easier to apply the binding.
Place your pattern on the laminated fabric and cut your new apron out.
I noticed that the fabric that I cut off at the arm curve would be just right to add pockets to my apron so I set those 2 pieces aside to cut out of later.
With all of this done you are ready to sew your bias strips together and make your apron.
Take 2 bias pieces as shown with angles in the opposite direction as the photo shows.
Place right sides together, offsetting the points by about ¼” as in the photo and pin the 2 pieces together. Sew a ¼” seam to join the pieces. Repeat with about 8 strips and then press the seams open. Trim off the dog ear points.
Attach the bias binder attachment and the proper foot to your machine.
Let’s sew.
This attachment is so awesome. Just start feeding the bias strip into the opening with the wrong side of the fabric facing you.
Once the fabric is to the end of the opening, start sewing. It folds the fabric and sews it on all at the same time. Sew about 1” and then simply place the right side of the apron up to the binder and the feed dogs will grab the fabric and sew the bias directly onto the apron. The bias is sewn on in one pass.
Sew down the right side of the apron and around the rounded corner across the bottom and up the left side of the apron. Slow down as you go around the bottom curves and snug the fabric up to the attachment. Stop at the left side top. Sew off of the fabric about 1” and cut the bias strip.
Now you will do the same to the top of the apron.
Measure for the ties and the binding that goes over your head. I made my waist ties 30” long and allowed another 25” of bias to go around my neck. With the rest of the bias strip, measure off 31”. That will give you an inch to fold under to finish the ends of your ties. With a water- soluble pen, mark the fabric at the 31” mark. Your bias strip should still be in the attachment.
You are going to start sewing the ties on the left side of the apron. (left as you are looking at it laying on the table)
Start sewing and sew to the mark on the strip. Now push the apron arm curve of the laminated fabric up to the attachment and sew the bias around the curve. I did a back- stitch at this point to give the ties extra strength at that joint.
When you get to the top of the apron, backstitch again for strength and stop the needle in the “down” position. Now measure the bias strip for the neck at 25”.
Mark with the pen again and continue sewing making the finished bias strip for the neck. When you get to the mark put the apron fabric back up to the attachment and once again, start sewing. Backstitch again and continue sewing around the curve on the right side of the apron. (Be careful not to twist the bias at the neck. Keep the stitching to the inside of the strip).
When you get to the end of the curve, backstitch again and then keep sewing the bias to make the tie on this side of your apron. Measure 31” again and stop sewing when you get to your mark.
Cut the bias at the mark. Turn the ends of your waist ties under ½” twice and stitch in place.
If you choose to put a pocket on your apron, now is the time. Remember the two small pieces of fabric from the arm curve that you put aside? I made 1 pocket. I decided what shape I wanted and trimmed the fabric. I made a small hem on the top of the pocket and then sewed some of the bias binding around the other 3 sides. It finished nicely.
I put my new apron on and looked in the mirror to decide where I wanted my pocket. Since I am left- handed I put it on the left at a level that was good for me. Then I pinned it in place
and sewed it on the outside edge of the binding. I even tilted the top of the pocket to give it a different angle.
It is done and I like it a lot. This was an easy and quick afternoon project. All of my supplies came from going batty!. My sewing machine also came from there. They are always a “one stop shop” for me.
Next time I will share what I made with my “leftover” pieces of laminated fabric.
Enjoy, Judi
Invest in the Best from the Start – Aurifil Thread for Piecing
I have oodles of sewing threads. It seems my thread inventory has superseded the surplus of my overstocked cosmetics! As I stare into this crater of glorious cotton fiber, I hear a resounding choir singing, Invest in the best from the start.
The sewing industry has discovered the importance of using quality threads in the combination with needles and fabric. These three components must play together for the best professional outcome. Are you confused in knowing which thread to use for each sewing technique? You are not alone. There are a plethora of quality thread choices. The most abundant brand for piecing in my supply is: Aurifil Thread.
Over the years, I gravitated to this luxurious Mako-Cotton thread which comes from Milan, Italy – and worth every penny. By the way, my Italian-made shoes have never steered me wrong.
What is Mako Cotton?
• Very fine cotton spun from extra long staple Egyptian fiber
• The highest-grade cotton = Top Quality
Aurifil 50-wt/2ply is my favorite thread to use for piecing quilts. I love how Aurifil differentiates their various thread lines with a certain color on each cone. The Aurifil 50-wt/2ply thread is wrapped around the orange colored cones. I am joined with many quilters who quickly learn the reasons why Aurifil thread is the best piecing thread:
• The 50-wt/2ply thread is a perfect weight for melting the thread into the seams of our cotton fabrics
• Virtually no-lint factor – visible on cone and after machine use when cleaning under stitch plate
• Very smooth and strong (extra long staple cotton provides a longer, smoother twist)
• No nubs or lumps or slubs (a soft uneven section in yarn or thread) Merrium-Webster.com
• Over 200 solid color choices and over 30 variegated color choices
Aurifil is definitely one of the best sewing threads in the market and an excellent consumer choice. I enjoy sharing my sewing research, and learning the conclusions of my fellow sewing enthusiasts.
Let’s give a holler out there for the quilters who use Aurifil thread for piecing. Whoo-hoo!
Jennifer J. Boyd©2010, with use rights to Going Batty Quilt Shop
How To Cut Bias Binding The Easy Way
Grab a 1/2 yard of fabric and join me as I show you step-by-step, the easy way to cut bias binding strips. The strips will be pre-mitered so there will be no marking or trimming later! It’s like magic…
Remove the selvages from a ½ yard cut of fabric.
Unfold the fabric and lay it on a cutting mat with the wrong side facing up.
Take the bottom right hand corner of the fabric and bring it up to meet the top edge of the fabric forming a triangle. Make sure the top edges are even.
Take the top left hand corner and bring it down toward the middle of the fabric until…
… the edges meet in the middle.
Rotate the fabric until it lays horizontal on a mat line.
Using a Rotary Cutter and a 24 1/2″ long Creative Grids Ruler, cut off approximately 4 inches from the point to clean cut the fabric and remove the section that is too small to use for binding. (It does not have to be exactly four inches…just eyeball it and cut!)
Next, rotate your cutting mat or walk around to the other side of the table and cut a 2 ½” strip from where you just clean cut. Be sure to line up the ruler both on the edge of the fabric and along the fold at the top, as indicated by the pink lines, so the strips will be straight and accurate.
BONUS! The strip will already be mitered (cut on the 45 degree angle).
Cut 2 ½” strips from the remaining fabric all the way across the unusual folded shape of the fabric until…
… you have approximately 4 inches of fabric left. (It is too small to use for binding)
A few of the strips might look like “Daddy’s tie” and not have a perfect miter. (Usually 1-2 strips)
Fix the ends by lining up the diagonal line (45 degree line) on a 5 ½” Creative Grids square ruler with either the top or bottom edge of the strip and cut. The bias strips are now ready to be sewn together into binding.
NOTE: You may want to wait to fix “Daddy’s Tie” until you are joining strips together and know which way you need them to point….
I’m “Bias”-ed When It Comes To Binding!
Most instructions for binding a quilt tell you to use cross-grain instead of bias strips unless the edge is scalloped or curved. I disagree. I bind all of my quilts with a bias cut binding. Why, you ask? The bias cut direction of fabric has the most give and is therefore the most flexible. The edges of a quilt take the most beating as they are cuddled in, washed, and moved around. It makes sense to arm those outside edges with a flexible binding that can better handle all of the life it will experience.
Most people cringe when I mention the words “bias binding”. When asked why I most often hear that the techniques are complicated and use a lot of fabric. My favorite technique is simple and uses only 1/2 yard of fabric to bind a throw sized quilt!
Grab a 1/2 yard of fabric and make bias binding with me over the next blog posts. It will be easy… better yet grab the binding fabric for one of your quilts, cut a 1/2 yard piece from it and join me… you’ll be glad you did:)
This Foot Was Made For Walking!
A walking foot (Bernina #50) is a specialty foot that provides you with an extra set of feed dogs for the top of your project. Having feed dogs on the top and the bottom will help grip and keep a hold of hard to manage fabrics or bulky projects like quilts, without you having to wrestle the fabric through your sewing machine. The walking foot attaches to your sewing machine like a regular foot, but also has a finger which rests on/around your needle bar signaling the extra set of feed dogs to pull the top fabric at the same rate as the bottom fabric.
The Bernina Walking Foot #50 comes with two convenient soles..
• Basic Sewing Sole: to be used with slippery fabrics, stripes, etc. This sole has ¼” and 1/8” markings on the sole to accurately sew quarter or eighth of an inch seams.
• Quilting Sole: has an open-toe which leads to better visibility when stitching. This sole is also equipped with ¼” and 1/8” markings for your convenience and a specially designed back, that allows the bulky quilt which you are sewing to glide easily under the walking foot.
A Walking Foot is great for general sewing for uses such as joining plaids, stripes, silks, and other slippery fabrics. The fabric will feed through evenly so you can easily match stripe lines without having them slip during sewing.
The most commonly thought of use for a walking foot is generally straight line quilting. When stitching in the ditch with your walking foot, line up the center marking in the middle of the sole so it looks like this:
The needle should fall on the “low” side of the seam right next to the “high” side. Stitch until the end of the seam line in which you would like to “stitch in the ditch”.
You can also do some decorative diagonal style quilting lines in addition to the regular “stitch in the ditch” method. Just use a ruler and fabric pencil or water-soluble pen to mark from corner to corner and stitch on the line, lining up the center mark with the line. Diagonal stitching on your project will look like this:
It’s as easy as that!
Wondering What’s Up With Increasing Quilting Cotton Fabric Prices?
Prices on our favorite quilting cotton fabrics have gone up multiple times this past year and will go up again this spring we are told. Read the article below to find out why compared to a loaf of bread, pound of meat, or a new car, we are lucky!
Click Here to Read the Article “Understanding Cotton Prices”
Blow Up Your Sewing Machine Problems With TNT!
If you find that your machine isn’t sewing quite right, here are a few things to check that could save you time and money. Just remember TNT, or Thread, Needle and Tension. Is the machine threaded correctly? Re-thread it
just to make sure, with the presser foot in the up position (this releases the upper thread tension disks allowing the thread to pass between them).
Are you using a good thread? It’s not one of those spools that your grandmother gave you is it? Thread gets brittle with age, especially in our dry climate here in Northern Nevada, and that could be the cause of a thread breakage problem, so try a new thread just to make sure. And the older, cheaper threads break more easily and create more fuzz in your machine. I recommend Aurifil thread, it is consistently ranked as one of the best in strength, reliability, and creates a TON less fuzz in your machine if you use it consistently. As the sewing machine technician, I can tell when a customer uses a high quality thread consistently – there’s much less fuzz gumming things up inside!
Have you changed your needle lately? Even if you have, change it again just to make sure. Bernina says that the #1 component of getting a good stitch (besides using a Bernina machine!) is the needle, so make sure it isn’t dull or bent, and for heaven’s sake don’t ever try to re-sharpen and re-use an old needle. I recommend the Klasse brand of needles. They’re reinforced above the eye to reduce breakage. And the titanium needles stay sharper much longer than the regular steel needles, they last about 5 times longer. So even though they are more expensive, they will save you money in the long run.
Lastly, make sure your tension is adjusted correctly. There should be some resistance on the bobbin thread and on the top thread when the presser foot is down. If not, you may need to bring it in for me to adjust to the right amount of resistance.
How to Clean Up Thread on the Carpet Without Clogging the Vacuum!
HOT TIP! Someone recently asked me if there was an easy way to clean up all of the threads that end up on the carpet while sewing. Believe it or not, I use a clean, dry toilet brush! Just “sweep” the carpet with the brush and it will grab all the threads. For fun, and to make sure no one else in the house takes your brush and uses it, decorate your brush by adding some glitz, ribbons, or even paint! Give it a try and let me know what you think:)
How to Use an Edgestitch Foot
An Edge Stitch or Top Stitch Foot (Bernina #10) has a guide running down the middle of the foot, which can be lined up against the edge of a piece of fabric or in a seam for perfect stitch placement.
With the Edge Stitch foot, you can Topstitch (stitch to the side of a seam) by adjusting the needle position to the left or right. Topstitching prevents seams from rolling and gives your project a finished and more professional look. Great for collars, pockets, and tops of purses, bags, and totes! We love it for finishing the edges of bag handles. Position both the blade and needle in the center of the seam, and have fun stitching perfectly placed decorative stitches on crazy patch blocks. When using this foot, follow these steps for success…
1) First, line up the blade of the foot in the seam.
2) Move the needle position to the right or left the desired amount.
3) Using the hand-wheel “bite” into the fabric with the needle, just as a precaution so the fabric does not move around.
4) Begin stitching, but make sure that the blade stays in the center of the seam.
It’s that easy to have perfect stitching exactly where you want it!
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