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Laminated Fabric Apron
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I found some laminated fabric at going batty! Quilt Shop. It is so soft and feels nothing like the laminated fabrics from 10 years ago. I decided to make an apron out of it. Nothing fancy, just a simple butcher- block style apron.
My husband gave me the bias binder attachment for my sewing machine for a gift (purchased at going batty! of course) and I have been anxious to use it. This is the perfect item to start with.
I read an article on the going batty! blog on how to cut bias binding the easy way. It was so simple to do. First, I used Best Press spray starch on my fabric and ironed it dry. I did this twice. It gives my fabric a little more body. My bias binder calls for 1 1/8” wide strips. Within a few minutes I had enough strips cut from a complimentary cotton fabric and I was ready to sew. Here are the supplies that you will need to make this apron.

A clear ruler, (mine is 8 ½ “ by 24 ½”) a rotary cutter, ½ yd. of a good quality complimentary cotton fabric for your bias binding, a length of laminated fabric, (my fabric had a design that was going in one direction so I used 1 ¼ yds.) some sheeting or old fabric for the pattern, scissors, a water soluble pen and some fine glass head straight pins. I used fine pins so they wouldn’t make a large hole in the fabric that might be seen when the apron was finished.
For my apron pattern I used an old store bought apron. Since my hips are larger than the apron and I like my apron to wrap ¾ of the way around my hips I simply enlarged my apron.

I also like it to be longer than the old apron I had so I added the length.
Since I was going to use my new bias binder attachment I also rounded the bottom corners of my new apron. I placed a round salad plate at the corners and drew a line and cut the square corners off. This will make it easier to apply the binding.
Place your pattern on the laminated fabric and cut your new apron out.
I noticed that the fabric that I cut off at the arm curve would be just right to add pockets to my apron so I set those 2 pieces aside to cut out of later.


With all of this done you are ready to sew your bias strips together and make your apron.

Take 2 bias pieces as shown with angles in the opposite direction as the photo shows.

Place right sides together, offsetting the points by about ¼” as in the photo and pin the 2 pieces together. Sew a ¼” seam to join the pieces. Repeat with about 8 strips and then press the seams open. Trim off the dog ear points.
Attach the bias binder attachment and the proper foot to your machine.

Let’s sew.
This attachment is so awesome. Just start feeding the bias strip into the opening with the wrong side of the fabric facing you.

Once the fabric is to the end of the opening, start sewing. It folds the fabric and sews it on all at the same time. Sew about 1” and then simply place the right side of the apron up to the binder and the feed dogs will grab the fabric and sew the bias directly onto the apron. The bias is sewn on in one pass.
Sew down the right side of the apron and around the rounded corner across the bottom and up the left side of the apron. Slow down as you go around the bottom curves and snug the fabric up to the attachment. Stop at the left side top. Sew off of the fabric about 1” and cut the bias strip.
Now you will do the same to the top of the apron.

Measure for the ties and the binding that goes over your head. I made my waist ties 30” long and allowed another 25” of bias to go around my neck. With the rest of the bias strip, measure off 31”. That will give you an inch to fold under to finish the ends of your ties. With a water- soluble pen, mark the fabric at the 31” mark. Your bias strip should still be in the attachment.
You are going to start sewing the ties on the left side of the apron. (left as you are looking at it laying on the table)
Start sewing and sew to the mark on the strip. Now push the apron arm curve of the laminated fabric up to the attachment and sew the bias around the curve. I did a back- stitch at this point to give the ties extra strength at that joint.
When you get to the top of the apron, backstitch again for strength and stop the needle in the “down” position. Now measure the bias strip for the neck at 25”.

Mark with the pen again and continue sewing making the finished bias strip for the neck. When you get to the mark put the apron fabric back up to the attachment and once again, start sewing. Backstitch again and continue sewing around the curve on the right side of the apron. (Be careful not to twist the bias at the neck. Keep the stitching to the inside of the strip).
When you get to the end of the curve, backstitch again and then keep sewing the bias to make the tie on this side of your apron. Measure 31” again and stop sewing when you get to your mark.
Cut the bias at the mark. Turn the ends of your waist ties under ½” twice and stitch in place.
If you choose to put a pocket on your apron, now is the time. Remember the two small pieces of fabric from the arm curve that you put aside? I made 1 pocket. I decided what shape I wanted and trimmed the fabric. I made a small hem on the top of the pocket and then sewed some of the bias binding around the other 3 sides. It finished nicely.
I put my new apron on and looked in the mirror to decide where I wanted my pocket. Since I am left- handed I put it on the left at a level that was good for me. Then I pinned it in place

and sewed it on the outside edge of the binding. I even tilted the top of the pocket to give it a different angle.

It is done and I like it a lot. This was an easy and quick afternoon project. All of my supplies came from going batty!. My sewing machine also came from there. They are always a “one stop shop” for me.
Next time I will share what I made with my “leftover” pieces of laminated fabric.
Enjoy, Judi
Invest in the Best from the Start – Aurifil Thread for Piecing
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I have oodles of sewing threads. It seems my thread inventory has superseded the surplus of my overstocked cosmetics! As I stare into this crater of glorious cotton fiber, I hear a resounding choir singing, Invest in the best from the start.
The sewing industry has discovered the importance of using quality threads in the combination with needles and fabric. These three components must play together for the best professional outcome. Are you confused in knowing which thread to use for each sewing technique? You are not alone. There are a plethora of quality thread choices. The most abundant brand for piecing in my supply is: Aurifil Thread.
Over the years, I gravitated to this luxurious Mako-Cotton thread which comes from Milan, Italy – and worth every penny. By the way, my Italian-made shoes have never steered me wrong.
What is Mako Cotton?
• Very fine cotton spun from extra long staple Egyptian fiber
• The highest-grade cotton = Top Quality
Aurifil 50-wt/2ply is my favorite thread to use for piecing quilts. I love how Aurifil differentiates their various thread lines with a certain color on each cone. The Aurifil 50-wt/2ply thread is wrapped around the orange colored cones. I am joined with many quilters who quickly learn the reasons why Aurifil thread is the best piecing thread:
• The 50-wt/2ply thread is a perfect weight for melting the thread into the seams of our cotton fabrics
• Virtually no-lint factor – visible on cone and after machine use when cleaning under stitch plate
• Very smooth and strong (extra long staple cotton provides a longer, smoother twist)
• No nubs or lumps or slubs (a soft uneven section in yarn or thread) Merrium-Webster.com
• Over 200 solid color choices and over 30 variegated color choices
Aurifil is definitely one of the best sewing threads in the market and an excellent consumer choice. I enjoy sharing my sewing research, and learning the conclusions of my fellow sewing enthusiasts.
Let’s give a holler out there for the quilters who use Aurifil thread for piecing. Whoo-hoo!
Jennifer J. Boyd©2010, with use rights to Going Batty Quilt Shop
My Favorite Fabric Pencil
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I tend to be a little heavy-handed when writing and break freshly sharpened lead points constantly. My solution is… Sewline Mechanical Fabric Pencils. They have a specially formulated ceramic lead that is strong, non-gritty and glides on fabric more smoothly than any other pencil I have tried! The special cushioned point mechanism protects the lead from breaking under writer’s pressure saving me a lot of frustration and wasted lead. Because it is a mechanical pencil, it uses a fine lead that gives you a sharp point all the time without sharpening. The clear, clean lines are easily removed* with the attached eraser, dabbing with a damp cloth, or washing. It is available in a great variety of colors that you can use on most fabrics (black, green, yellow, white, pink). And the best part is that both the lead and eraser are refillable! Each pencil comes packaged with one container of 6 ceramic lead refills. Because it is comfortable to use, always sharp, writes smoothly, resists braking and is refillable, it is one of my favorite tools!

*It is always a good idea to test fabric pencils/markers on a swatch of the fabric to ensure lines can be removed satisfactorily and erase pencil lines before ironing fabric because the heat can set the marks from some pencils or markers permenantly.
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